The demand for kimono is declining. How will the Japanese kimono industry revitalize?

The kimono used to be the daily clothing of the Japanese, but now it is only worn on formal occasions such as weddings and adult ceremonies, and most of the wearers are women.

According to the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry of Japan, the peak period of the Japanese kimono industry was 1975, when the market size was 1.8 trillion yen (about 105 billion yuan). According to a survey by the Yano Research Institute in Japan, by 2008, the Japanese kimono industry has shrunk to 406.5 billion yen (about 23.7 billion yuan), and in 2016 it further fell to 278.5 billion yen (about 163 yuan). 100 million yuan).

Japan’s demand for kimonos is declining, but many practitioners and entrepreneurs are continually trying to revitalize this traditional industry. Yuichi Hirose, a kimono fabric dye maker in Tokyo, said: “The kimono has become farther and farther away from the daily life of the Japanese.” He used traditional craftsmanship to print small sharks in a century-old workshop in a quiet neighborhood in Tokyo. Kimono fabrics with modern patterns such as enamel patterns.

Born in the kimono printing and dyeing family, after joining the university, he joined the family workshop. Hiroyuki Hiroshi focused on Edo Komon - Edo Koji is a kind of hand-dyed with paper template, with small and dense dots. The composition of the kimono can be traced back to the Edo period from the 17th to the 19th centuries. Mastering this traditional craft requires a superb skill. "What we have to do now is to create products that are acceptable to modern people."

Improve cost performance and wearability

At present, the reason why the kimono is difficult to enter the ordinary people's home is because the price is high, and it is necessary to hire a kimono expert to help wear it. Women's kimonos require constant stacking, folding and tying. Wearing a kimono requires a long plaque (kimono long shirt, which can keep the kimono flat and beautiful, and also has anti-fouling effect), and then use a long girdle and a kimono with a fixed outer layer. Wearing a kimono also requires wearing a long ankle, a pure white foot bag (socks with a big toe and four other toes) and a raft.

Takatoshi Yajima, vice chairman of the board of Japanese kimono revitalization, and kimono maker Takatoshi Yajima bluntly said that buying kimonos has “too many obstacles, expensive, difficult to wear, and special wash. We must improve the price/performance and wearability of kimonos. To do this, I believe that more young people will be willing to buy kimonos.” In the past 15 years, the number of customers of Yajima Xiaomin has doubled by selling kimonos of less than 100,000 yen (about RMB 5,800). . “As long as we can build a market where as many people will buy kimonos, the industry will continue to grow.”

To better appeal to the younger generation, Kyoto kimono designer Jotaro Saito said that in addition to the basic structure, the kimono still needs space for experimentation. "Every year, the trends and direction are changing, kimono to remain the same idea is wrong, not the old kimono obsolete." The designer who designed Lady Gaga kimono.

In Tokyo Fashion Week in March this year, Saito Taro blended traditional and novel patterns and colors to showcase the latest men's and women's kimono collections. “I hope that the kimono can be a kind of everyday clothing that makes people feel happy.”

In February of this year, the famous Japanese wedding designer Yumi Katsura held a fashion show with the theme of “West-West fusion” at the Akasaka Palace in Japan. More traditional Japanese art is incorporated. She said at the time: "Japanese people will wear kimonos at weddings and adult ceremonies, but I think the most important thing at the moment is to preserve the craftsmanship of these high-dressing dresses, such as yūzen, shibori, etc."

The Japanese government is also actively cooperating with kimono fabric manufacturers and fashion brands to preserve the traditional Japanese kimono production process, such as the high-end fabric Oshima, which has a history of more than 1,300 years.

Overseas tourists and kimono rental needs

Although Japanese kimono sales have been declining, kimono rental has become a popular service, especially popular with overseas visitors. The main reason for the prosperity of the kimono rental business is the growing cultural experience of overseas visitors.

Kahori Ochi, who opened a kimono rental store in Sakaeya, Shinjuku, Tokyo, said that he would receive about 500 overseas customers every year. These customers can rent a kimono worth 300,000 yen (about RMB 17,500) for 9000 yen (about RMB 525). A German tourist said that he would upload photos of his kimonos to a social network and share with friends: “The kimono is part of Japanese culture. I really want to experience it. It is very special and pride is born.”

Kahori Ochi's mother is the owner of a high-end kimono store, but does not want her daughter to inherit her career. “My mother told me that the kimono industry is at high risk and volatile. I originally thought that the kimono was outdated and not practical.” The experience of vacationing in Norway changed her mind, and the locals praised her kimono. This situation made her resolute. Decided to join the kimono business.

According to Kahori Ochi, the business in the store is getting better and better, and I hope that the 2020 Tokyo Olympics will bring more tourists to Japan. “But my goal is not to expand my business, but to meet people who want to understand Japanese culture.”

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