In all of the 94th Pitti Uomo wearing a suit "Peacock Man", Tim Cook is particularly low-key. The CEO of Apple, the world's highest market capitalization company, appeared at Pitti's event. The concern is of course how technology will continue to influence fashion. “Almost everyone has an iPhone to watch the show. As a communication tool, it has fully integrated into the fashion industry.†Here he spends vacations in Tuscany with his family and Cook exclusive to Cook, who goes to Pitti Uomo, tells BoF.
What Cook did not mention further is that the emergence of a smart phone such as the iPhone has infinitely magnified the importance of the show experience, and for fashion brands, how to attract the attention of viewers hiding behind the screen and effectively conduct secondary communication, It has become an important topic. And this time Pitti Uomo is trying to "preserve freshness", especially from the visual experience.
The theme of this year's show was “POP Pitti Optical Power†(POP Pitti visual power). The visual effects throughout the halls of the convention center saw a wave streaked with dots by the Italian designer Sergio Colantuoni in the center of the square. Puhu Space, and the polka-dot sculpture that is more dazzling than the ubiquitous Street Peacock male.
Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine and member of the BoF500, expressed to BoF exclusively that this time Pitti will try to make the status of the Italian exhibition, which has gradually risen, grow out of the weird elephant surrounded by peacock men and develop into one more. Right to speak, a fashion event that can attract more emerging brands to participate.
“Pitti’s strategy is to make this the largest platform for launching special projects at the beginning of the new season. This means that there is a special story behind each show. We never compete directly with the fashion week. There is one behind our show. The unique story of independent existence, when a brand wants to move Pitti from another fashion week, I always ask them what is behind this and must have a certain particularity.†Napoleone continued to say to BoF: “This talent Let us maintain the current, enough focus, and come to Patti's buyers and the media will return to Pitti every January and June."
Cook is participating in the grand fashion show of Roberto Cavalli, a special brand of Pitti Uomo, and is located in a monastery in the 14th century built on the Tuscan hills. It was the first time after the design director Paul Surridge. Held a men's series conference. It is not an easy task to change with a modern and young attitude and even restart Cavalli, which is known for its "flattering style." From a current perspective, what the brand once represented is from another world. But from the new series, Surridge is very confident about the future of the brand.
Roberto Cavalli | Image credit: Provided by the other party
From Jil Sander to Z Zegna, Surridge’s previous work experience was focused on minimalism and practicality, and this is reflected in his 2019 Spring/Summer series. He treated the brand's iconic animal prints in a restrained style that incorporated the spirit of a street skateboard. Whether it was python, leopard or zebra, he found a delicate balance between Italian tailoring and Hypeeeast. It's reasonable to wear this outfit, whether it's a yacht party or a regular team outside Supreme on Thursday. And this is the much-needed image of the Roberto Cavalli brand.
Another fashion show held at the Art Frittelli Gallery on the outskirts of the city came from the guest guest Ganryu of Fumito Ganryu. The independent brand who once withdrew from Comme des Garçons after 13 years of service (who said that he was expelled from the school gate by Kawakubo), he expressed his functional clothing with more zen flavors. Although the beginning of the whole body blouse is very easy to reminiscent of the United States white supremacist fanatic 3K party uniforms. Shortly after the show, many American media practitioners, including New York Times' fashion editor Matthew Schneier, quickly expressed his shock in Instagram Stories.
Birkenstock's show after the rain | Credit: The other party
The arrangement of time was relatively easy, and the design of the show was varied, becoming the common point of the Fashion Week held during Pitti. The second time to participate in the launch of the Birkenstock German shoes at Pitti Uomo was in the Torrigiani Garden, a historic and largest garden in Europe. The conference site was set up as a large-scale outdoor picnic scene. Tiangong is not the United States. The showers began before the press conference. Fortunately, the sun quickly regained control. Along with the light music of mixer master Michel Gaubert, Birkenstock displayed the relaxed face of a "comfortable brand", not only the various sandals on the model's feet, but also the new brand of foot care around the show. Product staff. Even the lunch bags provided after the show are particularly intimate.
The American brand Band of Outsiders also encountered similar problems. Before the start of the conference, heavy rain suddenly broke. Fortunately, before the launch of the conference, Rain God stole his temper. Let's make a joyful spring-like conference in the United States high school proudly as scheduled. The models took a classic American yellow school shuttle bus and slowly entered Pitti, sitting at Fortezza da Basso. The relaxed model stepped out slowly. Whether it is loose check shirts, Hawaiian shirts, or tracksuits created in collaboration with the sports brand Sergio Tacchini, it is a fashionable product that fashionable young people like. The Japanese brand Bed jw FORD displayed a rather personal series in Stazione Leopolda, an old train station in Florence. The bat detail print on the elbow of the shirt and the outline of the Haider Ackermann taste all left a good impression. impression.
In addition, this “flow of responsibility†is the finale of the finale guest designer Craig Green, which is rarely open to the public in the historic Boboli of the Medici family. Craig Green used his classic elements accumulated in the past to submit a detective note “Angel in the crime sceneâ€. After the conference, the designer exclusively told BoF in the background that the inspiration for the new season came from a photograph of a walking woman photographed on the street. Her pace was fast and the photographs showed a shadow effect, which reminded him of the halo behind the angels and the pattern of the scene of the crime according to the victim's stature.
Pitti Guest Designer Craig Green | Image Credit: Provided by the other party
In the show field, you can see the wooden device behind the model or on the back of the model to make a map of the victim's site drawn by the crime scene police; you can see the style of the uniform like a hospital nurse uniform; you can see the shadows The effect of the angel pattern (it seems to have something to do with Florence, but in fact it does not). Of course, there are still several knitted tops made with Nike Flyknit technology on the show floor. This is Green's first cooperation with the sports giant. The designer said that the cooperation with the brand is still at the conceptual stage, but I believe that it will soon introduce a real product.
In the end, Green further explained that in order to create a shadow effect, he printed the same angel pattern in different colors on three different fabrics and then compounded them together. This illusion can often be seen only when taking psychotropic substances or staying awake. Craig Green likes to add dark elements to the brand narrative, like clothing that starts with a drawstring. Why can these drawstrings not be the murder weapon? The structure of the drawstrings on the body can not help but think of the body after anatomy. And why do angels appear in the scene of the crime? Or does the angel he actually refers to as Lucifer (fallen angel) or white angel (nurse)?
The designer stated that he was a fan of horror movies and liked the unpredictable mystery. Green naturally does not want people to see his mind too easily. He is a very nervous and shy person. Just like there was a wooden device from the graduation series, it was his armor that protected him. Fighting for Florence from London was considered by many to be a springboard for his entry into the Paris menswear week. The designer denied the speculation in the background. However, he did say that the arrival of Florence this time allowed him to reach more buyers who had never returned to London Menswear Week. This made him feel great.
Including Craig Green, there were more than 1,240 brands participating in Pitti this year, of which 45% came from overseas and 250 brands participated for the first time. The number of exhibitors exceeds 30,000, of whom 19,000 are buyers. “We found that all the Pitti subscriptions were for young brands, but they may have been more traditional Italian brands before. This time we did find more brands in Pitti that were not as similar to “Pitti style†in everyone’s mind. 18 We found the LC23 and we will also set up such brands as Veja and YMC at pitti,†said Zhuang Luyi, International Purchasing Director at The Balancing, who told BoF. Vogue Runway contributor Luke Leitch spoke about the impression of this season that he thinks shoe products are everywhere, but there are many other brands that are worth watching and that he has never seen before. "I think Pitti is the most worthwhile place to look at men's clothing. The traditional notion of treating this as a peacock sanctuary should have changed. Pitti's taste has long since changed."
It is worth noting that, in each pavilion, Napoleone can also clearly see that "Pitti has always been one step ahead of everyone else." In the “I Go Outâ€, a venue where the main brand can play outdoor brands, we can find new brands that are in line with the current emphasis on sustainable development and the integration of fashion and functional fabrics. The “Monocle†is a male lifestyle magazine that is good at discovering participating brand stories. "I Go Out's brand is doing outdoor products, but for now, the fashion circle is beginning to be interested in such functional brands that don't care about fashion. Monocle believes that the biggest highlight of this time is for Japan established in 2011. The brand And Wander, which also pays attention to the long-time team of the Balancing buyers, is also on the lookout for Pitti.†“I Go Out and Nordic Fashion Pavilion, two new venues, we have all touched on a few interesting things. The new brand, which specializes in nylon jackets, also has specialty products for outdoor activities. "Zhuang Luyi said.
I Go Out Theme Exhibition | Picture Source: Provided by the Other
While traditional Italian brands such as Z Zegna promote the transformation of traditional suits through science and technology fabrics, traditional Italian brands such as Brunello Cucinelli, Corneliani, Lardini are also clearly moving closer to sports and leisure. The German brand MCM acquired by the South Korean group Sungjoo Group, the new series of LUFT (German for "Air") is the theme of the extreme sport of skydiving, making this past emphatic brand a pragmatic breakthrough.
COS Soma series released | Picture source: The other party
For the first time, H&M's high-end minimalist brand COS is bringing a high-end men's apparel line SOMA to host a dance-driven and unique conceptual fashion show in Pitti. “Every year there are many different brands appearing in Pitti. As COS, we often don’t compare ourselves directly with other brands. However, as the brand’s first time participating in the exhibition, we’re between traditional big brands and subversive traditional brands. I feel very natural and comfortable, "Cristo chief designer Christophe Copin told BoF.
“Some of the techniques and details we use in our clothing are often associated with custom tailors, but their designs must be innovative and continue until the season. One thing we appreciate is that people are Understanding how different it is, customers are attracted to certain costumes in our collection and wear them in a unique way. This personality is accepted by both COS and Pitti Uomo.†This rookie release is released as a dance, by Wayne McGregor Choreography also made COS's original monotony of minimalist aesthetics flexible.
This year's highlights include the Georgian rookie exhibition area. Young designers at the show also proved that this Eastern European country can export not only Demna Gvasalia alone. Is China ready to become the protagonist of the rookie exhibition? “We started to contact Georgia two years ago. We want to find the right people and the right time, so it's just a matter of time,†Napoleone explained. But this time you can see the participation of the designer Staffonly at the Mini event at Pitti. “We're still pretty good at the Mini. At least for the audience and the various media to show off the work, we can get more positive feedback, but I The people and customers that Pitti is targeting are not particularly suitable for the Chinese market,†said Shi Mo, one of Staffonly's designers. If the collective rise of the broader Chinese men's wear designers collectively, it is bound to become a new highlight of Pitti Uomo.
In addition to deciding when to include Chinese menswear designers, Pitti Uomo, the coolest professional menswear show known for its social media, is still pondering over how to tell a more diversified story in just four days. After all, these media and buyers who come to Florence, the reference is the next Milan, Paris Fashion Week, and everything they see, will be magnified by social media.
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